problems and fixes

BaywoodBill

pre-Yuppiedom
1. The diagonal corner cabinet near the slider had the habit of flying open when the vehicle brakes were applied. After I saw that the door was getting cracked I replaced the friction catch with an earthquake catch (and also glued the crack in the door). No further door flying open. The catch I used is a push-to-open;push-to-close catch.

2. The electric sofa had rods sticking out in the seat part and in the bottom part. I discovered it when I noticed a rod protruding through the front of the seat -- right through the fabric. It was still under warranty so the service shop (Gleason's Salinas RV) cut off the excess rod (it was a faulty construction) and filed the end and then took it to an upholstery shop to have the hole in the fabric repaired. Leisure Travel would have replaced the sofa but I thought that was excessive.

3. Some folks have had the drawer guide (that keeps the drawer aligned with the center runner) on one or more of the kitchen drawers break. They have invented various fixes (see the Yahoo! Free Spirit group).

4. Sometimes overhead cabinet doors will open (on turns or really bumpy roads) and the contents spill out. I got some elastic mesh and put in some eye-bolts to hook it to.
 

BaywoodBill

pre-Yuppiedom
Here is another fix I just did yesterday. Only time will tell if it works.

On the Free Spirit there is a strap that keeps the TV from flapping around. It failed (the top strap bracket pulled off from the panel, leaving the screw behind).

The attached photo shows my repair. As I see it, there are 4 improvements I have made.

In the photo you see:
#1. The panel with the screws removed (I had to buy a special tool to fit the recessed-square screw heads.
#2. The replacement straps I bought. On this kit, the brackets are about 50% larger than the ones LTV installed. This is the first of the improvements.
#3. The new brackets in place. Here you see the second and third improvements: a. the brackets are farther from the pivot point, thus providing a greater restraining capability and b. the brackets are farther apart vertically to reduce the vertical force of the tendency of the bracket to swing.
#4. The new screws (actually, I replaced the screw shown with a flat head screw because the bracket couldn't close over the strap with the round head screw)along with a washer. The washer is the fourth improvement because it will make it much more difficult for the bracket to pull off from the screw.
#5. The new strapping in place.

After I have driven a few thousand miles I'll let you know how this all worked. I figure with 4 improvements it ought to last longer than the LTV installation.

 
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What Next

New member
Nice to see your photos and fix.
When I have time I will have to post pictures of the sliding drawer I put under stove top and the screen curtain I made for the sliding door for $20.
Getting ready to head out on a 3 week trip Saturday.
Gary O
 

BaywoodBill

pre-Yuppiedom
Here is a post about the sewer hose that I found on a different forum

The good news is it is easy to replace on the LTV even though it is "permanently" attached to the RV at the dump valve assembly.

There was a camping world right next door to the KOA so I stopped by and bought a 15' hose of the medium quality. I chose 15' because it seemed about the right length compressed, I am not sure what "wrap" hose it is but it feels heavier than the original that came on the LTV. I didn't have time to replace the hose myself or find someone to do it so we just took it to our next night's camp site (my cousin's paved driveway fortuitously).

To replace the hose on the LTV, it is also easier to run the driver's side up on blocks/ramps to provide a little more working room.


Two screw-type pipe clamps hold the sewer hose container pipe. Loosening the two screws slightly allows slipping the two pipe clamps off their hangers without taking them completely off the sewer hose container pipe. Slide the container pipe off the sewer hose to the rear. There is nothing holding the container pipe to the dump valve assembly but friction and the two pipe clamps that were holding the container pipe in position.


One screw-type pipe clamp holds the sewer hose to the dump valve assembly. Loosen this pipe clamp and remove the old hose.


Attach the new hose with the old pipe clamp or with the one that comes with the new hose. In my case, the new hose came with a plastic clamp attached to the hose that had a tightening screw bracket a little too large to fit easily into the hose container pipe so I used the standard metal screw-type pipe clamp that was on the old hose.


Fit the sewer hose container pipe back over the new sewer hose and onto the dump valve assembly being sure to slide it all the way foward. Then slip the two pipe clamps back over their respective holders and retighten the screws.


The total process took 15-20 minutes (maybe I worked a little faster than normal because rain was headed our way).
 

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