Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

220629

Well-known member
Tire Tires Tyre Best Most Bestest Goodest Wonderfullest Recommended

Anyone even thinking about posting a non-specific tire quality/recommendation question should do a search from the blue bar first. It really has been discussed before.

In fact, JD Caples (Jon) has even done the search for you and posted it in this thread on the second reply here.

Tires - Replacement Recommendations
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11914

The links he posted are here:

***
Getting ready for winter... prep questions??
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4453

Tire review & Rotor Rust question
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2028

NCV3 Wheels and Tires
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1579

Michelin Tires MS/2

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10233

235/85 Michelins and the 4.18 ratio

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4910


-Jon
***

Some of these threads are NCV3/Michelin specific, but it will get you started on your search. Thanks goes to Jon for doing the search. vic

2011/01/27 edit: Another recent post showing the love for Michelins. I don't run them myself, I'm just a parrot of the forum.

any one recomend tires
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14207
 
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220629

Well-known member
The High Amp Compact Fuses off the Battery are not easy to find.

On my 2004 there are 5 each high amp compact 32 volt fuses mounted in a 6 position holder connected directly to the battery terminal. Mine are (left to right) 200 amp, 70 amp, 125 amp, MT space, 125 amp and 100 amp. The 100 amp feeds the fuse block under the steering column. It is unlikely that any of them will blow, but if one does you may find that even a dealer won't have them in stock. (My dealer doesn't.)

My 100 amp fuse went south on a Saturday evening (of course). Local parts stores don't have them so to get by I used some #8 AWG gauge jumpers and lugs to temporarily substitute a big honkin' 100 amp 250 volt blade fuse I had on hand. I used #10 bolt size terminals on the fuse ends and 1/4" bolt size terminals on the Sprinter ends. It wasn't pretty, but it worked. As it turned out without it I would have been sans van until the order came in because my dealer didn't have the part. The 100 amp fuse #5104599-AA fuse ("none 8017002"?? from the invoice) list for $2.65 each. They are not expensive. I bought a spare. The reason I include my jury rig here is that if you need the part it may not be easy to find so this gives an alternative to keep you on the road.

2010/12/21 edit:
Dodge fuse part numbers. Courtesy autostaretx, Dick.

I believe these numbers are valid (from my 2005 parts catalog):
5104596AA 200 AMP in PDC
5104598AA 70 AMP in PDC
5166996AA 80 AMP in PDC
5104599AA 100 amp

2011/01/13 edit:
Additional fuse info courtesy Gulf SV Kevin.

Fuse size - MB# - Dodge#

200A - N 000000 000316 - 05104596AA
125A - N 000000 000416 - 05104600AA
100A - N 000000 000415 - 05104599AA
080A - N 000000 000414 - 05166996AA
070A - N 000000 000413 - 05104598AA

As nobody has answered...

Local auto parts stores are unlikely to stock them. I bought a couple at the local Dodge dealership. I would expect any MB dealership should stock them.

These will likely work. The tab holes may need some custom alteration using a rat tail file.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-200A-MIDI/dp/B004ZJ0VTM

Blue Sea Systems AMI/ MIDI Fuses (2 per pkg.)
View attachment 90523

Some additional info is here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=101112#post101112

:cheers: vic

Kevin's thread is here:
Power Distribution Fuse numbers
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14078

20140704 Update:
Vic,

I got a print out at the dealer for these fuses for a 2013 and the part #s were different than what you had. Thought you might want to add this to your list. I haven't checked in a couple of weeks but Freightliner had the part # 000000-002801 100a fuse on back order. I needed an 80amp for my inverter which they had for less than $2.00. I got a couple 80's and I was going to get a couple 100amps as spares. Another part # for the 100amp was 000432 off a quote the dealer gave me for installing a coach battery (Quote was for $954.45 I did it for less than $350.00). This 000432 fuse was $16.80 on the dealer quote and FL quoted $4.37. The PDF is what I got from a second dealer showing all the part #s for fuses item # 325 on the blow up. If these fuses are the same for all the different years it makes no business sense to have different part #'s for the same part IMHO.
I bought a Littlefuse 80a fuse from the parts store that was a close fit. I had to make the holes a little larger to fit over the posts until I was able to get to FL. It was more expensive than the Mercedes part from FL. Go figure.
Thanks goes to Pfflyer for the update.
He also included an official parts PDF with the post above. As always, the original post/thread can be accessed by clicking the blue arrow icon within any quote box.

Misc. comments:
Doubled up #10 AWG wire could be used if #8 AWG is not available.

2 ea. 100 amp automotive fuses could be paralleled to temporarily replace the 200 amp fuse. Paralleling dissimilar value fuses (100 + 25?) may not work as well because the resistance of the links may be too different?

If one of my 125 amp fuses were to blow I would not hesitate to use my 100 amp spare as a temporary replacement once the problem was identified and corrected. It is unlikely the fuses see any loads near their full rating under normal operation. These fuses are designed to protect the wire from overload, not necessarily the device which the wire feeds.

A picture of the monster fuse installed. With the leads routed downward the black plastic fuse cover actually still fit basically in place.
MonsterFuseInstalled.jpg

A picture of the monster fuse together with a smaller commonly available automotive 100 amp fuse.
100AmpMonster.jpg


A commonly available 100 amp automotive fuse connected to the leads. The terminals would need to be well taped at the fuse.

Edit: A bit different thinking. Perhaps an even better way to temporarily install this automotive fuse would be to remove the Sprinter wire terminal from the lower stud, bolt the Sprinter wire terminal directly to one temporary fuse connection, and then add the #8 jumper lead up to the gang bar stud feed. It saves squeezing two wire terminals into the rather confined space of the original fuse studs like I did.
100AmpAutoSubstitue.jpg

An issue I noticed during all this. My first position 200 amp fuse and lower terminal were showing green corrosion.

Terminal and fuse in place.
TerminalCorrosion.jpg


Corrosion on the fuse.
200AmpFuse.jpg

I was concerned that I would find corrosion on all the fuse positions, but I did not. I believe the corrosion on the 200 amp position happened because the wire terminal was crimped and also soldered. Apparently residual solder flux has caused the corrosion. None of the other wire terminals were soldered and all the others looked fine.

I cleaned the corrosion off both the 200 amp fuse and the terminal. I then applied some petroleum jelly to help protect it. The corrosion had crept toward the area of the 200 amp fuse link proper, but I'm confident I caught it in time. I removed, cleaned and lubed all the fuse positions also.

The entire terminal top feed gang bar and all the top nuts need to be removed to change any one fuse. The 200 amp fuse is held with 10 mm nut size, all the rest are 8 mm nut size. The gang bar battery terminal is a 10 mm nut size.

Now the embarrassing truth about why I needed a 100 amp fuse. Let me begin by saying that I have always preached about disconnecting all power sources whenever working on an electrical circuit. I should listen to myself.

I needed to remove the fuse block under the steering column to tighten the connections to try and cure my intermittent turn signal problem. When I went to remove the block I came to a nicely isolated, lone feed terminal on an 6 mm stud/10 mm hex nut. It was getting late, it was only 12 volts, it was so easy... maybe I could avoid radio resets... so I removed it and taped it up well.

Removing the fuse block and tightening all the clips went just swimmingly. I was happy with how easy it really was. (It did cure the turn signal problem... for a time) Came time to re-install the block and everything still went well. Then I untaped the terminal, laid down on my back in the dim light and connected it to a stud... got a spark and knew things weren't going well anymore. There are two studs at the bottom of the fuse block. One is the feed terminal. The other is a grounded mounting stud. One guess as to which one I went to. Anyway, now you know the sordid details. This does belong in Stoopid Things. I am an idiot. Hope this helps the next guy. vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
Easy Steering Column Fuse Cover Removal and Fuse Bonus Packs


I guess I'll stay with the fuse theme of Stoopid Things and not move over to Cheap Tricks.

My steering column fuse block cover is always a b*tch to get to come off. No matter how I turn the upper slotted fastener I always end up sticking a knife blade tip into the crack to lever the cover loose. That chews up the plastic lip a bit more each time. I may be missing something to make it easier to pop loose.

Today I filed a 3/8" wide shallow cut into the driver side edge to give me something to slip a small screwdriver into and get the leverage. It should save chewing up the edge. This may not even be worth highlighting, but here's a picture anyway.

FuseCover.jpg

The following information may make this post worthwhile.

Automotive fuses are typically expensive at dealers and parts houses. Most times they don't sell anything but small quantities. That can get even more expensive if you're going through some fuses during troubleshooting. (I think that happens sometimes no matter how good your methods may be.) I discovered Walmart has fuses in 5 each quantity and even better, they carry what Bussman names Fuse Bonus Packs. I purchased the #44 pack at about $10.68 because I needed 5 amp fuses for another application. It gives a good assortment of ATC fuses.

Buss44BonusPack.jpg

The Sprinter specific Walmart pack I would recommend is the #53 pack. It has most all the fuses found in Sprinters including the large MAX style which are used for the aux elec fan and fuel pump(?) under the driver seat. I believe the #53 pack was a buck or two more than the #44 pack. Walmart also has 5 ea. packs of specific size fuses for about $2.00 each. Unfortunately Walmart has none of the kits or 5 packs that include 7.5 amp fuses which are common on the T1N Sprinter.

Here is a PDF link to Bonus Packs available.
http://www.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/531d3666-6ef9-4fb0-a274-774cbf1ea7ef.pdf

Have fun. vic

Edit again 2011/01/13 - Harbor Freight definitely has changed suppliers and again has automotive fuses. They now have a 60 piece ATC pack which sometimes goes on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piece-ato-atc-blade-fuse-set-67665.html
 
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220629

Well-known member
More Fuse Information

Some of this has already been posted, but it can't hurt to duplicate.

General Fuse Info

010Fuses.jpg

Fuse Block Mounted on Battery (PDC)

011MIDIfusesOffBattery.jpg


2010/12/21 edit:
Dodge fuse part numbers. Courtesy autostaretx, Dick.

I believe these numbers are valid (from my 2005 parts catalog):
5104596AA 200 AMP in PDC
5104598AA 70 AMP in PDC
5166996AA 80 AMP in PDC
5104599AA 100 amp



Fuse Block #1 Under Steering Column

012FuseBlock#1wNotes.jpg

Fuse Block #1 Map and Turn Signal

013FuseArrangementBlock1and TurnSignal.jpg

Fuse Block #2 Under Driver Seat

022FuseRelayBlocksUnderSeat.jpg

vic

Added:

Some additional fuse and relay information can be found here.

Fuse Block #2 Fuse Map 2004
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24683
 
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donblume

New member
The "Thou Shalt Not Jack a Sprinter Differential" Myth

VIC: You said:

"I then read/searched my Sprinter Service Manual CD for any warnings against jacking the rear of the vehicle up using the differential housing. I didn't find anyplace where they specifically warned against that. Maybe I missed it."

What Sprinter service Manual on CD do you have and do like it? Do they have a manual for the 2008 NCV3? I have been trying to get an opinion and recomendation for over a year on this.

Thanks, Don Blume
 

220629

Well-known member
The "Thou Shalt Not Jack a Sprinter Differential" Myth

VIC: You said:

"I then read/searched my Sprinter Service Manual CD for any warnings against jacking the rear of the vehicle up using the differential housing. I didn't find anyplace where they specifically warned against that. Maybe I missed it."

What Sprinter service Manual on CD do you have and do like it? Do they have a manual for the 2008 NCV3? I have been trying to get an opinion and recomendation for over a year on this.

Thanks, Don Blume
Don,
I bought a CD on line right after I bought my 172,000 mile 2004.

The CD has a Sprinter icon on top with "Sprinter" directly below.

The lower label reads:
Ultimate Service CD
2003 - 2006
Service Manuals
Parts Catalogs

The ISBN code is 52158765-SERVCD1

Do I like it? It's OK. It is good for reference, but a bit lacking in step by step procedures from what I've found. I believe it is the same info which is available in Max's post so I really didn't need to spend the money. :doh: and that cuts me to the quick.:bash:

I've noticed your questions (actually at times pleas?) here and over at Yahoo trying to get an opinion for a good Sprinter manual. Given the lack of response to your posts I came to the conclusion that there probably isn't a heads up good manual out there.

Were I you, I'd look up some of Jon's (JDCaples) posts about the on-line information he's found. I think I included a post in Stoopid Things (probably) or Cheap Tricks (?) directing people to his comments. You should be able to find that post scanning down my condensed list.

Sorry I can't give you more. I don't think there's a Motor's Manual type book out there for our Sprinter.

If there is it should be covered in a new thread so everyone can benefit. vic

Edit: Jmoller99 has provided many PDF downloads for Sprinters. :thumbup::thumbup:

Service Manual
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26431
 
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220629

Well-known member
Another possible myth - NAFTA 3500 dual rear end 15" tires need to be E rated.

Apparently the 3500 dual rear wheel NAFTA Sprinters come with OEM load range D 15" tires. That should open up a bunch more tire choices for the 3500 than was previously thought.

Exhausted the search option for new 3500 tires please help.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12709

A quote from the single post #15. Thanks goes to Doug and Sailquik (Roger).
****
All of the tires that come as OEM ex factory original equpment (Continental Vanco Four Season 195/70-R15 C) and (Goodyear Cargo Vector 195/70-R15 C) are
Load Range "D" rated tires!
Says so on all of the Contiental Vanco 190/70R15C tires on my van.

Some folks here on the forum have been confused that they are Load Range C by the "C" in the description/nomenclature moulded on the sidewall of the tire, which is the way German "commercial" or "Cargo" tires are specified.


"They did not come from the factory with them ("E" rated tires). As long as the tires meet load rating , are rated for dual use , correct for the rim size ( Dia. and Width), do not rub against each other or rub body work there should be no problem."
****
Although Doug and Roger are generally well informed and very reliable, I suggest doing your own research before purchasing your tires.

AP/vic
 
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avid

Saphira's rider
Vic,

Best wishes for a great outcome and a quick recovery on your THR. I hope your surgeon has read the owner's manual and spares no expense for your procedure. :thumbup:

I am going on three years with mine and loving it. Do your exercises like you are told and try not ot overdo it once you start feeling better. There will be plenty of time to enjoy your new hip once it's healed.
 
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220629

Well-known member
Smooth Flat Idler Pulley


OM647 2004 2005 2006 sheave

Correct part number is:
Dodge = 05080319AA
MB = 000 202 04 19

Obscure part because parts diagrams are not necessarily correct.

The OM647 diesel engine upper center idler sheave pulley is smooth with the belt ribs riding on it by design. Doktor A refers to it as an anti-flutter pulley.

This does not apply to the earlier OM612 models.
******
Correct upper idler pulley 2004 2.7L?
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5317

Some selected text:

"After further reflection about a flat vs grooved pulley I believe the diameter difference is only one factor. The smooth pulley doesn't need to be exactly in line or at a pefect right angle with the pulley to each side of it. A grooved pulley must be more perfectly aligned or it can cause premature belt wear and probably different stresses on all the pulley bearings located on that top section. If it happens your particular pulleys are in line then there may be no consequence to using a grooved pulley, but it is not necessary.

If you're interested you may be able to check the alignment by having someone carefully release the tension on the belt while you watch the grooved pulley. If the belt rides up one side of your grooved pulley as it goes slack it would indicate things are not in line. It's not a perfect test though.

Personally I would choose the flat style pulley as designed. (Edit: Maybe not. Read further.) Have fun. vic"
******
20111123 edit: There is a note in red on the Europarts listing that the grooved pulley is now listed by Dodge for the 2004 - 2006 OM647 engines.

If your Sprinter is a 2004-2006 model and the original upper pulley fitted to your engine is smooth and slightly smaller (56 mm) in diameter, this slightly larger ribbed pulley is to be used as a replacement unit. This is the pulley now specified as the correct replacement for both upper and lower idlers on the Dodge parts diagram.

The part link should be here:
http://store.europarts-sd.com/serpentinebeltidlerpulley-small2002-2006.aspx

******


Another link with more discussion if you're interested.

2 top idler pulley part# 2005 2500 diesel
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14307

Have fun. vic
 
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jpoke5

New member
after researching how to replace the seat cushion foam for the drivers side I found out that you can trade seats with the passenger side seat.... awesome. this is for my 03 2500. I switched the seats around now my ass is just fine...lol
 

220629

Well-known member
T1N Key Fob Remote Control Battery Batteries

I personally don't need this info to operate my crank windows, but I figured it may help those with them new fangled fancy motorized ones. Thanks goes to Autostaretx - Dick.

...
Right now I'm hoping that new batteries in the key fob will be the answer
...


I sincerely doubt that the fob batteries will fix it (but we can hope)
The "lock-unlock-lock" is the Sprinter's control module telling you that it thinks one door is ajar.

For the curious, the T1N keyfob uses two CR2025 batteries.

--dick
The original thread is here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15707

vic
 

brassarl

2006 T1N 2500 Long & Tall
T1N Key Fob Remote Control Battery Batteries

I personally don't need this info to operate my crank windows, but I figured it may help those with them new fangled fancy motorized ones. Thanks goes to Autostaretx - Dick.


Vic, this off topic.. but looking at my friend's 2011 this morning, his back window is is broken. Larry, what happened to your window; you won't believe this!!! Would you believe the door stops stick out further than the rear bumper? Yup, enginerds:bash: figured this out! So the lesson is; if you ever back up to a flat wall, DO NOT EXPECT TO HEAR THE BUMPER THUD, instead the sound of glass breaking!:thinking:
Lou
 

220629

Well-known member
Air Bag Respect

I disassembled a steering wheel the other day and as always I was nervous about the air bag unit. The procedure I was following said to disconnect the air bag fuse, disconnect the battery negative, wait some minutes for voltages to drain off, then remove the air bag unit, carry it with the bag side away from you, and stow it on a work bench bag side up away from your work area. I thought that was very good advice and should be shared.

There is a video in this page which I think does a good job of showing how dangerous the air bags can be in case anybody has never been shown.

Force of an Airbag
http://flashovertv.firerescue1.com/Media/820-Force-of-an-Airbag/

vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
Always seat the engine oil filter cartridge securely on the stem pipe.

I'm very much aware that this needs to be done so I'm careful about it. There have been posts which indicate not seating the oil filter cartridge completely can cause reduced oil flow/pressure. The filter cartridge assembly will install into place even when the cartridge is not fully and properly seated. There is nothing in the filter housing to push it home should it not be properly installed on the stem. That is done by hand before installation. To make things even worse, there is no low oil pressure switch or gauge on the Sprinters to let you know that the oil pressure is reduced.

Anyway, my last filter change (I use Dodge OEM filters), I pushed the filter cartridge down onto the stem with quite some force and it seemed to be bottomed out. I gave the cartridge one last push and it popped down further into place. I thought I'd used enough force the first time. I'm glad that I double checked it.

I know this has been highlighted before, but I figure another reminder won't hurt. FWIW. vic

Edit: Some detail with pictures is found here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22156
 
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Zymurgy

Buckeye Zymurgist
When ever working on anything electrical, disconnect the battery. I believe I destroyed my ECM because of not disconnecting the battery. A very costly mistake, especially when you are trying to DIY to save some money.
 

220629

Well-known member
A Rear Shocks Narrative

Well, I have another one which may not really belong in Stoopid Things, but I'll take the attitude that as long as I started the thread I can abuse it as I wish.

I knew I needed new rear shocks. At 225,000+ miles I'm thinkin' they're not OEM, but who knows? I noticed excessive rocking over speed bumps and bad roads. I had checked for fluid leaks, no wetness showing. I'm not unfamiliar with driving truck like vans so given the present finances my Sprinter seemed fine to me.

Hooked the boat up and took off from N.F. headed for Lake George. Thanks to the 15.8 mpg average mileage we made it no problem 260 miles straight through to exit the Interstate. Slowed for the toll booth, no stop because we have EZPass. Caught a green light for the right turn, so no stop for that. Continued down the road until we needed to stop for a line of traffic. My wife exclaimed, "You DO know they're stopped up there!!!" I knew that. That was why my my right foot was trying hard to put the brake pedal through the floorboard! A quick glance in the mirror verified my left escape. Sprinter, boat and trailer stopped about 2 1/2 cars into the stopped line, but safely over to the empty left lane. The smell of hot brakes was pretty hard to miss.

My first opportunity I pulled off the road to look things over. Front brakes looked OK, rotors were grooved, but outside pads were OK. Rears looked good. They were changed out last year. Decided to continue while taking it easy. The brakes seemed OK again?

Found a NAPA store with the idea that new front brakes might be a good idea. When I wandered to the back of the van I noticed light oil spots on the back doors. Crawled under only to find that both shocks had blown oil all over everything. As it turned out neither NAPA or any other local parts places had front rotors and pads. Drove the rest of the trip cautiously without issue.

What I think happened... The boat trailer tongue weight with event gear is more load than we normally carry. The entire time we drove the 260 miles non-stop on the Interstate the shock seals were riding on crusted shaft metal and spewing oil which coated the rear brakes. When we tried to stop the boat, trailer and Sprinter only the front brakes were stopping us. We are so lucky that I had the escape lane! Checked all the brakes since. Rear brakes good. Shocks, shot. Front pads good, rotors borderline.

Of course I have replaced parts.

Rear shocks. NAPA #550019 Severe Service approx. $80 ea.

Front rotors NAPA #880346 Ultra Premium 285 mm approx. $70 ea.

Front Pads (Bosch) NAPA #UP7848M w/ sensors Ultra Premium Approx. $75 set

Front oil seals NAPA #21636 Approx. $10 each

Front outer bearings NAPA #33205J (Made in Germany) Approx. $25 ea.
Comment: Normally I would replace both inner and outer wheel bearings, but the Made in Germany inners both looked great. (The outers were not Made in Germany.) I have had some bad experiences with some "other world" bearings in electric motors over the years. At this point I'll stay with a good looking used Made in Germany or USA bearing over a replacement made I don't know where. YMMV

2 ea. almost new (Craigslist) Cooper LT225 75R 16 tires. $150


So there are those that would point out that trailer brakes would have been perfect in the situation we were in. I can't disagree. Our boat trailer came without trailer brakes, backing plates, drums, or any other parts installed. I have always said that if I ever need to replace the axle, the new one will have electric brakes. That said, trailer brakes add to the maintenance needed, seize up at inopportune moments, and can be just basically unreliable. I've been towing this particular no brakes rig for over 20 years without issue. Knock, touch wood.

I now remember to test my brakes as I'm coming off longer highway drives. I hope my experience can help someone else avoid similar problems of their own. vic

Some related information. Rear shocks.

You do not need to support it, the leaf springs do that. Just unbolt, put the new ones in place and bolt them in.

Chris
The Monro and other OEM type rear shocks I installed posed no problem during wheels on the ground mode. Some gas charged designs may give a bit of trouble to compress and align for the bolts while lying cramped on your back. :idunno:

vic

Added:
If it hasn't been mentioned in this thread yet...

The low and high roof, cargo and passenger models have different shocks listed on Europarts SD.
http://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-item.asp?cID=107&scID=206

My comment.
Be aware that MB considers a Cab/Chassis model the "low roof". The HC aka High Cab is what most consider the "standard h-m-m... low roof" Eg. - many passenger models. The SHC aka Super High Cab is what most owners want for for their camping conversions. So-o-o... is Europarts SD using the MB "Low Roof" cab chassis designation in their listing?

The passenger model has a double section leaf spring vs a single on the cargo. That would affect characteristics. A cab chassis has a different style frame vs the van body. Many upfitter Sprinter based RV's are cab chassis. Call Europarts to check if you are concerned.

I don't know how that may be addressed with some other suppliers. If you have the common HC or SHC cargo model van you should be ok.
 
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220629

Well-known member
Start Error DIY SKREEM Reset Possibility

There is a recent thread about SKREEM reset which I feel may help to have highlighted in more than one place.

First a little background. The T1N Sprinter key start system includes a non-battery powered recognition chip in the plastic key handle or bow. This security feature is completely separate from the remote door lock/security system which is powered by batteries in the fob (if you have that). When the key is turned in the ignition switch the SKREEM Security module energizes a ring antenna at the switch. That signal provides enough power to the chip that it can send back a coded signal to the SKREEM module to identify the key as one which is assigned/programmed to the vehicle. When the chip is recognized the SKREEM and ECM Engine Control Module communicate and a start enable is established. If a key turns the ignition switch (a plain door only key is one possibilty) and the chip signal is not accepted then a "Start Error" message is displayed on the dash and the engine will not crank.

There are not a bunch of things an owner can do if they get the Start Error message. Another known good key can be tried, but for the most part diagnosis and repair needs dealership scan tools. Zach Woods has developed a DIY reset procedure which may work to get you traveling down the road. As he said in his comments, this is not a repair. Even if it works you may be on borrowed time to not get the issue properly checked.

Thanks goes to Zach Woods for this one. Zach has made many, many good contributions to the Forum. I think that he has been contributing here pretty much from its inception.

Here is the post and thread.

Start Error Message

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=172593#post172593

vic

IIRC Zach is a/the founder/owner of this forum.
I guess that explains that... :doh: Thanks. vic
 
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