The High Amp Compact Fuses off the Battery are not easy to find.
On my 2004 there are 5 each high amp compact 32 volt fuses mounted in a 6 position holder connected directly to the battery terminal. Mine are (left to right) 200 amp, 70 amp, 125 amp, MT space, 125 amp and 100 amp. The 100 amp feeds the fuse block under the steering column. It is unlikely that any of them will blow, but if one does you may find that even a dealer won't have them in stock. (My dealer doesn't.)
My 100 amp fuse went south on a Saturday evening (of course). Local parts stores don't have them so to get by I used some #8 AWG gauge jumpers and lugs to temporarily substitute a big honkin' 100 amp 250 volt blade fuse I had on hand. I used #10 bolt size terminals on the fuse ends and 1/4" bolt size terminals on the Sprinter ends. It wasn't pretty, but it worked. As it turned out without it I would have been sans van until the order came in because my dealer didn't have the part. The 100 amp fuse #5104599-AA fuse ("none 8017002"?? from the invoice) list for $2.65 each. They are not expensive. I bought a spare. The reason I include my jury rig here is that if you need the part it may not be easy to find so this gives an alternative to keep you on the road.
2010/12/21 edit:
Dodge fuse part numbers. Courtesy autostaretx, Dick.
I believe these numbers are valid (from my 2005 parts catalog):
5104596AA 200 AMP in PDC
5104598AA 70 AMP in PDC
5166996AA 80 AMP in PDC
5104599AA 100 amp
2011/01/13 edit:
Additional fuse info courtesy Gulf SV Kevin.
Fuse size - MB# - Dodge#
200A - N 000000 000316 - 05104596AA
125A - N 000000 000416 - 05104600AA
100A - N 000000 000415 - 05104599AA
080A - N 000000 000414 - 05166996AA
070A - N 000000 000413 - 05104598AA
As nobody has answered...
Local auto parts stores are unlikely to stock them. I bought a couple at the local Dodge dealership. I would expect any MB dealership should stock them.
These will likely work. The tab holes may need some custom alteration using a rat tail file.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-200A-MIDI/dp/B004ZJ0VTM
Blue Sea Systems AMI/ MIDI Fuses (2 per pkg.)
View attachment 90523
Some additional info is here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=101112#post101112
vic
Kevin's thread is here:
Power Distribution Fuse numbers
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14078
20140704 Update:
Vic,
I got a print out at the dealer for these fuses for a 2013 and the part #s were different than what you had. Thought you might want to add this to your list. I haven't checked in a couple of weeks but Freightliner had the part # 000000-002801 100a fuse on back order. I needed an 80amp for my inverter which they had for less than $2.00. I got a couple 80's and I was going to get a couple 100amps as spares. Another part # for the 100amp was 000432 off a quote the dealer gave me for installing a coach battery (Quote was for $954.45 I did it for less than $350.00). This 000432 fuse was $16.80 on the dealer quote and FL quoted $4.37. The PDF is what I got from a second dealer showing all the part #s for fuses item # 325 on the blow up. If these fuses are the same for all the different years it makes no business sense to have different part #'s for the same part IMHO.
I bought a Littlefuse 80a fuse from the parts store that was a close fit. I had to make the holes a little larger to fit over the posts until I was able to get to FL. It was more expensive than the Mercedes part from FL. Go figure.
Thanks goes to Pfflyer for the update.
He also included an official parts PDF with the post above. As always, the original post/thread can be accessed by clicking the blue arrow icon within any quote box.
Misc. comments:
Doubled up #10 AWG wire could be used if #8 AWG is not available.
2 ea. 100 amp automotive fuses could be paralleled to temporarily replace the 200 amp fuse. Paralleling dissimilar value fuses (100 + 25?) may not work as well because the resistance of the links may be too different?
If one of my 125 amp fuses were to blow I would not hesitate to use my 100 amp spare as a temporary replacement once the problem was identified and corrected. It is unlikely the fuses see any loads near their full rating under normal operation. These fuses are designed to protect the wire from overload, not necessarily the device which the wire feeds.
A picture of the monster fuse installed. With the leads routed downward the black plastic fuse cover actually still fit basically in place.
A picture of the monster fuse together with a smaller commonly available automotive 100 amp fuse.
A commonly available 100 amp automotive fuse connected to the leads. The terminals would need to be well taped at the fuse.
Edit: A bit different thinking. Perhaps an even better way to temporarily install this automotive fuse would be to remove the Sprinter wire terminal from the lower stud, bolt the Sprinter wire terminal directly to one temporary fuse connection, and then add the #8 jumper lead up to the gang bar stud feed. It saves squeezing two wire terminals into the rather confined space of the original fuse studs like I did.
An issue I noticed during all this. My first position 200 amp fuse and lower terminal were showing green corrosion.
Terminal and fuse in place.
Corrosion on the fuse.
I was concerned that I would find corrosion on all the fuse positions, but I did not. I believe the corrosion on the 200 amp position happened because the wire terminal was crimped and also soldered. Apparently residual solder flux has caused the corrosion. None of the other wire terminals were soldered and all the others looked fine.
I cleaned the corrosion off both the 200 amp fuse and the terminal. I then applied some petroleum jelly to help protect it. The corrosion had crept toward the area of the 200 amp fuse link proper, but I'm confident I caught it in time. I removed, cleaned and lubed all the fuse positions also.
The entire terminal top feed gang bar and all the top nuts need to be removed to change any one fuse. The 200 amp fuse is held with 10 mm nut size, all the rest are 8 mm nut size. The gang bar battery terminal is a 10 mm nut size.
Now the embarrassing truth about why I needed a 100 amp fuse. Let me begin by saying that I have always preached about disconnecting all power sources whenever working on an electrical circuit. I should listen to myself.
I needed to remove the fuse block under the steering column to tighten the connections to try and cure my intermittent turn signal problem. When I went to remove the block I came to a nicely isolated, lone feed terminal on an 6 mm stud/10 mm hex nut. It was getting late, it was only 12 volts, it was so easy... maybe I could avoid radio resets... so I removed it and taped it up well.
Removing the fuse block and tightening all the clips went just swimmingly. I was happy with how easy it really was. (It did cure the turn signal problem... for a time) Came time to re-install the block and everything still went well. Then I untaped the terminal, laid down on my back in the dim light and connected it to a stud... got a spark and knew things weren't going well anymore. There are two studs at the bottom of the fuse block. One is the feed terminal. The other is a grounded mounting stud. One guess as to which one I went to. Anyway, now you know the sordid details. This does belong in Stoopid Things. I am an idiot. Hope this helps the next guy. vic