Aftermarket Switch Table

sikwan

06 Tin Can
That is all of them?
Unfortunately, that's not all of them. There's more but I haven't had the time to research for the p/n's.

One note though is that there are two p/n's listed for the Cargo Lamp. One was $14 and the other was $28. I bought the $14 one and it doesn't fit anywhere in the dash or center console. Make sure you at least compare the body dimensions of the switches.
 

georgetg

2005 140" low roof
Seek,

I just made the same error...

did you happen to have the part number of the cargo lamp switch that fits?

Also in a totally unrelated matter...

I ended up getting the 3 position Sprinter fan switch.
I am planning on using it with the fantastic fan since I already installed the heater booster switch to control the aux heater...

My fan runs of the aux battery and I don't want to combine the circuits.
They are joined when the alternator is producing output but disconnect with the engine off...

I'm thinking of running optocouplers to make the on/off and intake/exhaust functionality work.

I ran Cat5, so I can't run any meaningful current on those wires...

any thoughts?


Cheers
George
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Hi George:

did you happen to have the part number of the cargo lamp switch that fits?
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4101&postcount=20

I ended up getting the 3 position Sprinter fan switch.
I am planning on using it with the fantastic fan since I already installed the heater booster switch to control the aux heater...

I'm thinking of running optocouplers to make the on/off and intake/exhaust functionality work.

I ran Cat5, so I can't run any meaningful current on those wires...

any thoughts?
Is this the switch you're using?
sw.JPG

Which optocoupler were you thinking of using?

It's certainly doable with running low current voltage through the cat5 to control your fan. How many lines out of the Cat5 are available for use on the fan?
 

georgetg

2005 140" low roof
seek

That's the switch.
ii was thinking or running the power from the fan down to the switch and then back
I figure I can make the exhaust function the default with a dpdt relay to reverse the polarity going to the fan direction switch
2 wires used so far

the I use the same power wire to close the dome switch whenever the dash is not in the neutral position

That's one more wire used for a total of 3 used

The other version is tu run the power from the dash switch up to the vent and then use the optocoupler to separate the two different circuits

I bundled the twisted pairs, so I have 4 wires available

Cheers
George
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
i was thinking or running the power from the fan down to the switch and then back
I figure I can make the exhaust function the default with a dpdt relay to reverse the polarity going to the fan direction switch
2 wires used so far
George, connect 12V to the DPDT relay and use GND to enable the relay. So, connect GND to the switch from the console somewhere, and connect the switch output to the relay. 1 wire used.

the I use the same power wire to close the dome switch whenever the dash is not in the neutral position
I believe the vent/fan switch is active low, meaning you supply a GND to it to open the vent cover.

If you remember my hook up with the other switch, I had to reverse the polarity using a mosfet because the switch was an active output "high" while the fan was an active enabled "low." I could've used the switch as an active output "low," but then the LED indicator wouldn't work. Anyways, before I go off on a tangent...

If you're ONLY using this new switch, then you probably just need two GND lines to control your fan. One for enabling direction (air in) and the other for fan open/on.
 

georgetg

2005 140" low roof
Seek, that's a great idea

thanks for the feedback...

I'm using the momentary switch to turn on/off my inverter.
I had modified the switch to make the red LED indicate inverter on only to discover the sizing difference when I tried to put everything back together...

Cheers
George
 

Top Bottom