3 Years with a 144 4x4 - Adventure Van Build Thread
- Thread starter scav322
- Start date
scav322
Active member
I think I would need to go to a network based system for this, I see KUS offers gauges with CAN input capability so it’s definitely possible. My main objective here is to be able to see my tank level at a glance while using the sink or rear shower hookup, also while filling. I prefer an analog style gauge for this over pulling it up on the Cerbo. Appreciate the input!
scav322
Active member
Project: Interior Lighting Control
Problem: How to control 2 zones of interior lighting from multiple switches and have both zones independently dimmable?
I have 2 zones of interior lighting (3 actually if you count the garage). Zone 1 - 10 ceiling puck lights and the 10' LED strip on top of the upper cabinet, Zone 2 - 4 puck lights underneath the upper cabinet. The goal was to turn both zones on and off from multiple places in the van. One switch by the sliding door entry, one switch accessible from the bed, and one switch accessible from the driver seat. Yes this may be overkill for interior lighting but its nice to be able to turn the lights on and off from anywhere you are when using the van.
The main problem arises when trying to control all this from a momentary push button, however I found a module that will do it. Its a headlight switch module from a hot rod company https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/product-template-variations/
The module is microprocessor controlled and uses 2 relays, all its functions are accessed using a momentary push button input, meaning you can have as many momentary pushbuttons scattered around the cabin as you see fit!
First press turns on relay 1 (zone 1 for me), subsequent presses toggle relay 2/zone 2, holding down on the button for 1.5 seconds turns off both relays/zones.
2 zone puck light dimming is achieved just by adding 2 dimmers on the circuits downstream of the relays. Control of the 10' Led strip light is handled on its own remote where color can be changed or lights dimmed, however the module receives power from relay 1.
I usually click the button twice and turn on all the lights when entering the van from the sliding door and then turn off the lights or dim them when in bed. I never got around to wiring in the dash switch however the provision is there.
I have seen some led controllers offering dimming and zone control, however I went with this option as I like how flexible it is with how you can configure it to work for your own ideas.
***
One problem I encountered with my interior puck lights was flickering when the Espar was starting up or shutting down, I know that topic has been covered on here, but can confirm the addition of a voltage regulator solved that problem.
Here is the module
Buttons located on lower B Pillar by sliding door
Here is my C Pillar (ish) control panel. It contains a master lighting switch for the cabin, 2 dimmers, 1 of 2 garage lights buttons.
It also has the controller for the Maxxair fan and the air handler speed switch. I removed the back part of the bulky Maxxair controller for a lower profile mounting. Best part is having access to this from bed!
Covered in another post but maybe worth mentioning again for anyone interested:
Buttons are function etched from custombilletbuttons.com (Small business, nice guy)
Plates are from sendcutsend.com
Problem: How to control 2 zones of interior lighting from multiple switches and have both zones independently dimmable?
I have 2 zones of interior lighting (3 actually if you count the garage). Zone 1 - 10 ceiling puck lights and the 10' LED strip on top of the upper cabinet, Zone 2 - 4 puck lights underneath the upper cabinet. The goal was to turn both zones on and off from multiple places in the van. One switch by the sliding door entry, one switch accessible from the bed, and one switch accessible from the driver seat. Yes this may be overkill for interior lighting but its nice to be able to turn the lights on and off from anywhere you are when using the van.
The main problem arises when trying to control all this from a momentary push button, however I found a module that will do it. Its a headlight switch module from a hot rod company https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/product-template-variations/
The module is microprocessor controlled and uses 2 relays, all its functions are accessed using a momentary push button input, meaning you can have as many momentary pushbuttons scattered around the cabin as you see fit!
First press turns on relay 1 (zone 1 for me), subsequent presses toggle relay 2/zone 2, holding down on the button for 1.5 seconds turns off both relays/zones.
2 zone puck light dimming is achieved just by adding 2 dimmers on the circuits downstream of the relays. Control of the 10' Led strip light is handled on its own remote where color can be changed or lights dimmed, however the module receives power from relay 1.
I usually click the button twice and turn on all the lights when entering the van from the sliding door and then turn off the lights or dim them when in bed. I never got around to wiring in the dash switch however the provision is there.
I have seen some led controllers offering dimming and zone control, however I went with this option as I like how flexible it is with how you can configure it to work for your own ideas.
***
One problem I encountered with my interior puck lights was flickering when the Espar was starting up or shutting down, I know that topic has been covered on here, but can confirm the addition of a voltage regulator solved that problem.
Here is the module
Buttons located on lower B Pillar by sliding door
Here is my C Pillar (ish) control panel. It contains a master lighting switch for the cabin, 2 dimmers, 1 of 2 garage lights buttons.
It also has the controller for the Maxxair fan and the air handler speed switch. I removed the back part of the bulky Maxxair controller for a lower profile mounting. Best part is having access to this from bed!
Covered in another post but maybe worth mentioning again for anyone interested:
Buttons are function etched from custombilletbuttons.com (Small business, nice guy)
Plates are from sendcutsend.com
scav322
Active member
Espar D5E Hydronic - Thermostatic Control
Problem: Espar Easy Start Pro controller does not have a thermostat function for hydronic systems.
Without another form of control you are stuck with the Espar D5E (and other Espar hydronic furnaces) running continuously if you want interior heating. There are kits from Heatso with parts from Webasto that allow the air handler to turn on and off with temperature (kinda) but not the furnace itself.
I learned on here of another way to control the furnace using a provision in the Espar wiring harness for remote running (link to that thread below) however there are a couple deficiencies I see in the way others have done this.
Deficiencies I wanted to address in some of the other solutions I have seen on here and from the Heatso kit included: short cycling from the use of a basic thermostat switch, controller appearance and user friendliness, and elimination of the Webasto thermostat and fan speed switch found in Heatso kits.
My solution was to use a residential style thermostat for user friendliness and appearance, inclusion of a timer relay to prevent short cycling, and replacement of the Webasto fan speed controller for a 4 position fan speed switch with "off" position.
The basics of the system revolve around the ability to turn the Espar furnace on and off by connecting 2 wires together on the Espar factory harness, originally intended for use with their own remote control feature (sold separately).
With a thermostat added to the equation, the Espar can be turned on and off using a relay output on a standard residential style thermostat. I went with a battery operated one from Lux Geo as it was simple and black in color. Initial testing found that there was continuity on the "w" and "r1" terminals when the thermostat was set to heat mode.
The problem with using only a thermostat for turning the Espar on and off is that there is only a 1 or 2 degree differential on the thermostat's set point. This causes the problem of short cycling the furnace because the temperature can rise quickly in the van with the heater on, more so if the thermostat is located close to the heaters vents. This means the heater may be turning on and off every 10 or so minutes, while its doing its best job to maintain temperature as close to the set point as possible.
To prevent this, I added a timer relay to the circuit, in between the thermostat and Espar. The timer relay is a "off delay" timer. This off delay is adjustable to preference, I use 25 minutes.
Once the vans temperature goes below the set point on the thermostat, the thermostat triggers the timer relay to turn on, the timer relay output is connected to the Espar and will keep the Espar running until the set time has elapsed. This means the heat in the van will stay on for a minimum of 25 minutes each cycle. The air handler is also tied into this circuit and it will also remain running for a minimum of 25 minutes as well.
If constant heating (throughout a cold night) is desired, just set the thermostat at a high setting and more than likely it will just run continuously. I have been in the van with outside temps at about 10 - 15 degrees F and the most the system has been able to achieve is about 70F running continuously.
I also added a "defeat" switch where the thermostat and air handler will work as described above, however the Espar will not receive the run signal. This is used when/if the Easy Start Pro controller is being used to run the hydronic furnace.
The 2 addition timer relays shown in the drawing are for a "hot water" button to run the Espar and for a "warm up" delay time for the air handler.
Between this system and my lighting control, there was a case to be made for a PLC to be used in place of these relays however I wanted the van to be serviceable down the road with off the shelf parts. Possibly on a future build I may go with PLC controlled systems but I am happy with how this system has worked out. More simple the better.
Lot of good information on this method of control can be found in this thread. Thanks to @keithr, @phertel
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/92442/
Espar wiring diagram - red & yellow on the Easy Start Remote pigtail will run the furnace.
Timer relay control wiring diagram.
Note: wire #234 & #235 are "red" and "yellow" on the Espar wiring diagram.
Dold MK9962N-82-61 Off delay timer relay. This was the only DPDT 12V timer relay I could find. Luckily from a decent brand.
Installed on panel inside upper cabinet. 12V fuse block, 3 timer relays, light control module, water pump relay.
This sub panel receives power through a Victron Smart Battery Protect and is setup to be turned on or off through the Cerbo GX relay. (topic for next post)
Panel shown above is located behind this "wall". There is a removable fuse panel access cover which also serves as the "patch wall"
Thermostat or Easy Start Pro can be used to run the Espar. Thermostat controls the Kalori air handler in both scenarios.
I made a plate with a main power button for mounting the Easy Start Pro. The aforementioned "defeat" switch is hidden in the cabinet in front along with a fridge power switch.
Problem: Espar Easy Start Pro controller does not have a thermostat function for hydronic systems.
Without another form of control you are stuck with the Espar D5E (and other Espar hydronic furnaces) running continuously if you want interior heating. There are kits from Heatso with parts from Webasto that allow the air handler to turn on and off with temperature (kinda) but not the furnace itself.
I learned on here of another way to control the furnace using a provision in the Espar wiring harness for remote running (link to that thread below) however there are a couple deficiencies I see in the way others have done this.
Deficiencies I wanted to address in some of the other solutions I have seen on here and from the Heatso kit included: short cycling from the use of a basic thermostat switch, controller appearance and user friendliness, and elimination of the Webasto thermostat and fan speed switch found in Heatso kits.
My solution was to use a residential style thermostat for user friendliness and appearance, inclusion of a timer relay to prevent short cycling, and replacement of the Webasto fan speed controller for a 4 position fan speed switch with "off" position.
The basics of the system revolve around the ability to turn the Espar furnace on and off by connecting 2 wires together on the Espar factory harness, originally intended for use with their own remote control feature (sold separately).
With a thermostat added to the equation, the Espar can be turned on and off using a relay output on a standard residential style thermostat. I went with a battery operated one from Lux Geo as it was simple and black in color. Initial testing found that there was continuity on the "w" and "r1" terminals when the thermostat was set to heat mode.
The problem with using only a thermostat for turning the Espar on and off is that there is only a 1 or 2 degree differential on the thermostat's set point. This causes the problem of short cycling the furnace because the temperature can rise quickly in the van with the heater on, more so if the thermostat is located close to the heaters vents. This means the heater may be turning on and off every 10 or so minutes, while its doing its best job to maintain temperature as close to the set point as possible.
To prevent this, I added a timer relay to the circuit, in between the thermostat and Espar. The timer relay is a "off delay" timer. This off delay is adjustable to preference, I use 25 minutes.
Once the vans temperature goes below the set point on the thermostat, the thermostat triggers the timer relay to turn on, the timer relay output is connected to the Espar and will keep the Espar running until the set time has elapsed. This means the heat in the van will stay on for a minimum of 25 minutes each cycle. The air handler is also tied into this circuit and it will also remain running for a minimum of 25 minutes as well.
If constant heating (throughout a cold night) is desired, just set the thermostat at a high setting and more than likely it will just run continuously. I have been in the van with outside temps at about 10 - 15 degrees F and the most the system has been able to achieve is about 70F running continuously.
I also added a "defeat" switch where the thermostat and air handler will work as described above, however the Espar will not receive the run signal. This is used when/if the Easy Start Pro controller is being used to run the hydronic furnace.
The 2 addition timer relays shown in the drawing are for a "hot water" button to run the Espar and for a "warm up" delay time for the air handler.
Between this system and my lighting control, there was a case to be made for a PLC to be used in place of these relays however I wanted the van to be serviceable down the road with off the shelf parts. Possibly on a future build I may go with PLC controlled systems but I am happy with how this system has worked out. More simple the better.
Lot of good information on this method of control can be found in this thread. Thanks to @keithr, @phertel
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/92442/
Espar wiring diagram - red & yellow on the Easy Start Remote pigtail will run the furnace.
Timer relay control wiring diagram.
Note: wire #234 & #235 are "red" and "yellow" on the Espar wiring diagram.
Dold MK9962N-82-61 Off delay timer relay. This was the only DPDT 12V timer relay I could find. Luckily from a decent brand.
Installed on panel inside upper cabinet. 12V fuse block, 3 timer relays, light control module, water pump relay.
This sub panel receives power through a Victron Smart Battery Protect and is setup to be turned on or off through the Cerbo GX relay. (topic for next post)
Panel shown above is located behind this "wall". There is a removable fuse panel access cover which also serves as the "patch wall"
Thermostat or Easy Start Pro can be used to run the Espar. Thermostat controls the Kalori air handler in both scenarios.
I made a plate with a main power button for mounting the Easy Start Pro. The aforementioned "defeat" switch is hidden in the cabinet in front along with a fridge power switch.
scav322
Active member
Project: Victron Cerbo GX - use of relay functions
I added a temperature based cooling fan using the Cerbo GX relay function due to the high running temperature of the Victron Orion 360W battery to battery charger.
The Cerbo has a few options built in the software to make use of its 2 internal relays. One option is to activate a relay based on a temperature input. I installed a Victron ASS000001000 temperature sensor on the back of a mounting bolt for the Orion charger and connected that sensor to the Cerbo GX temperature input 1. I then wired my cabinet cooling fan through Cerbo relay #2.
On the Cerbo GX screen, I set Relay 2 for "temperature' and then setup the conditions on the "temperature control rules" tab. Once the temperature of the Orion's case rises above 90F, the fan starts running. When the temperature falls below 85F the fan will automatically shut off.
One thing I would have done differently is to install an additional fan directly on the heat sink of the Orion. The Orion gets very hot but of course that is "normal" according to Victron. I may swap out the Orion 30A with the new Orion XS 50A model and add an additional fan soon.
For the other relay on the Cerbo, I have that setup to be a manual disconnect switch for my 12V house circuits using a Victron Smart Battery Protect. I have the "H" & "L" terminals on the SBP connected to Cerbo Relay #1 on NC and COM. When H&L have continuity, this allows the SBP to become "active". If the Cerbo relay is activated, this will open H&L and "deactivate" the SBP.
I would like to add battery temperature based disconnect to the Smart Battery Protect. I am using Battle Born batteries with their own internal BMS. The Cerbo GX has battery temperature data coming from the temperature sensor connected to the Smart Shunt, however I do not think I can use that data for the relay function on the Cerbo. The only way I can see to do this would be to add an additional battery temperature sensor wired to the Cerbo temperature input. Any ideas?
I added a temperature based cooling fan using the Cerbo GX relay function due to the high running temperature of the Victron Orion 360W battery to battery charger.
The Cerbo has a few options built in the software to make use of its 2 internal relays. One option is to activate a relay based on a temperature input. I installed a Victron ASS000001000 temperature sensor on the back of a mounting bolt for the Orion charger and connected that sensor to the Cerbo GX temperature input 1. I then wired my cabinet cooling fan through Cerbo relay #2.
On the Cerbo GX screen, I set Relay 2 for "temperature' and then setup the conditions on the "temperature control rules" tab. Once the temperature of the Orion's case rises above 90F, the fan starts running. When the temperature falls below 85F the fan will automatically shut off.
One thing I would have done differently is to install an additional fan directly on the heat sink of the Orion. The Orion gets very hot but of course that is "normal" according to Victron. I may swap out the Orion 30A with the new Orion XS 50A model and add an additional fan soon.
For the other relay on the Cerbo, I have that setup to be a manual disconnect switch for my 12V house circuits using a Victron Smart Battery Protect. I have the "H" & "L" terminals on the SBP connected to Cerbo Relay #1 on NC and COM. When H&L have continuity, this allows the SBP to become "active". If the Cerbo relay is activated, this will open H&L and "deactivate" the SBP.
I would like to add battery temperature based disconnect to the Smart Battery Protect. I am using Battle Born batteries with their own internal BMS. The Cerbo GX has battery temperature data coming from the temperature sensor connected to the Smart Shunt, however I do not think I can use that data for the relay function on the Cerbo. The only way I can see to do this would be to add an additional battery temperature sensor wired to the Cerbo temperature input. Any ideas?
RVBarry
2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
Hi, I don't remember if the GX can get temperature from the shunt (or BMV).
However, you can use a supported Bluetooth temperature sensor, and the GX can read it.
Last I checked, RuuviTag and Mopeka temp and level sensors were supported, but there are probably more now.
You will also need a USB BT receiver on the GX, as the internal BT chip likes to overheat. The TPLink is normally recommended:
Does the Battery Protect not have it's own temperature monitoring capability?
scav322
Active member
Hey RVBarry, I don't think the Cerbo GX can get temp data from the shunt unfortunately, or at least I have not been able to find out how.
I used another temp sensor hardwired to the Cerbo for monitoring the temperature of my Orion charger, however if they were not close together I would have gone with one of those Ruuvi sensors. Good call on the BT receiver, I was unaware of the overheating issue.
I do not believe the Smart Battery Protect has the ability to monitor temp on its own. I think a Victron BMS system is supposed to monitor temp and be able to disconnect the SBP.
The only way I can see to do this would be adding an additional battery temp sensor to the Cerbo and then using the Cerbo relay temperature control feature to turn on and off the SBP. Sucks to need an additional temp sensor, I already have one for the Smart Shunt, another for Inverter, and another for Orion.
I used another temp sensor hardwired to the Cerbo for monitoring the temperature of my Orion charger, however if they were not close together I would have gone with one of those Ruuvi sensors. Good call on the BT receiver, I was unaware of the overheating issue.
I do not believe the Smart Battery Protect has the ability to monitor temp on its own. I think a Victron BMS system is supposed to monitor temp and be able to disconnect the SBP.
The only way I can see to do this would be adding an additional battery temp sensor to the Cerbo and then using the Cerbo relay temperature control feature to turn on and off the SBP. Sucks to need an additional temp sensor, I already have one for the Smart Shunt, another for Inverter, and another for Orion.
scav322
Active member
Use case for the factory auxiliary battery.
I used the factory auxiliary battery located in my passengers seat base for 3 functions - 5 channel amplifier power, exterior lighting power, and for the Orion B2B charger connection point.
I know this battery gets removed in a lot of builds, however I saw it as a useful energy source for some high power consumers on the van. I also like how it can be quickly recharged by the factory alternator and also is disconnected from the house batteries and starter battery when the ignition is off.
I added a Blue Sea 5196 MRBF fuse block in the passengers seat base which is fed directly from the aux. battery. This gave me 3 MRBF fuses/connection points. I wired 2 of the connection points with 4awg lines underneath the van in 1" plastic flexible conduit, these will provide power to the Orion and Alpine amplifier located at the back of the van.
For exterior lighting, I added 6 automotive 30A relays in the passengers seat base along with an 8 position Blue Sea 5046 fuse block. This fuse block is fed from the 3rd MRBF fuse. These 6 relays are controlled by a 6 switch panel in the headliner.
I am happy with this setup as I can run my exterior lights and stereo without worrying about draining the starter battery, it also provided a clean connection point for the Orion charger.
This all packages pretty tightly in here but there is still room to work. Only modification required was shaving down the battery hold down bracket to fit the 8 position blade fuse block.
2 4awg lines run in this plastic conduit from the passengers seat base to the rear of the van, entering by the rear wheelwell.
I really like this type of conduit, its very flexible and "feels" high quality. Its from McMaster Carr part# 6959T14. They also offer a nice range of fittings for this that are push-to-connect.
The 6 relays are controlled by these 6 switches in the headliner. Never got around to adding a compressor for the "comp" button.
I used the factory auxiliary battery located in my passengers seat base for 3 functions - 5 channel amplifier power, exterior lighting power, and for the Orion B2B charger connection point.
I know this battery gets removed in a lot of builds, however I saw it as a useful energy source for some high power consumers on the van. I also like how it can be quickly recharged by the factory alternator and also is disconnected from the house batteries and starter battery when the ignition is off.
I added a Blue Sea 5196 MRBF fuse block in the passengers seat base which is fed directly from the aux. battery. This gave me 3 MRBF fuses/connection points. I wired 2 of the connection points with 4awg lines underneath the van in 1" plastic flexible conduit, these will provide power to the Orion and Alpine amplifier located at the back of the van.
For exterior lighting, I added 6 automotive 30A relays in the passengers seat base along with an 8 position Blue Sea 5046 fuse block. This fuse block is fed from the 3rd MRBF fuse. These 6 relays are controlled by a 6 switch panel in the headliner.
I am happy with this setup as I can run my exterior lights and stereo without worrying about draining the starter battery, it also provided a clean connection point for the Orion charger.
This all packages pretty tightly in here but there is still room to work. Only modification required was shaving down the battery hold down bracket to fit the 8 position blade fuse block.
2 4awg lines run in this plastic conduit from the passengers seat base to the rear of the van, entering by the rear wheelwell.
I really like this type of conduit, its very flexible and "feels" high quality. Its from McMaster Carr part# 6959T14. They also offer a nice range of fittings for this that are push-to-connect.
The 6 relays are controlled by these 6 switches in the headliner. Never got around to adding a compressor for the "comp" button.
scav322
Active member
Wiring and Labels
I used 18awg Ancor wiring for all control circuits and 12awg Ancor for all power circuits. This made it easy in terms of ordering crimps, terminals, etc.
Sharp edges of the vans sheet metal are definitely a concern. Plastic flex conduit and split loom were used for all runs over and around sheet metal edges. McMaster offers some really nice plastic flexible conduit, very bendable but strong. (part#6959T14)
For wiring marking I used 3M Grafoplast wire sleeves and write on tags. There are nicer options for the tags from 3M but pretty costly. I have used these for years at work and they are pretty dated now. I think in the future I am going to switch to printed on heat shrink labels.
Powerwerx sells printable labels for Blue Sea products. These are decent but the ink smears pretty easily, definitely let them sit on the printer for a while before touching. It is also not easy to get the text in the center of the labels, takes a few tries with the printer and some wasted sheets.
https://powerwerx.com/fbl-blue-sea-...97AmmQfShoL3ovwv2m8BM4VSNvNeTJHqQJQGP3pEX3Azg
I used 18awg Ancor wiring for all control circuits and 12awg Ancor for all power circuits. This made it easy in terms of ordering crimps, terminals, etc.
Sharp edges of the vans sheet metal are definitely a concern. Plastic flex conduit and split loom were used for all runs over and around sheet metal edges. McMaster offers some really nice plastic flexible conduit, very bendable but strong. (part#6959T14)
For wiring marking I used 3M Grafoplast wire sleeves and write on tags. There are nicer options for the tags from 3M but pretty costly. I have used these for years at work and they are pretty dated now. I think in the future I am going to switch to printed on heat shrink labels.
Powerwerx sells printable labels for Blue Sea products. These are decent but the ink smears pretty easily, definitely let them sit on the printer for a while before touching. It is also not easy to get the text in the center of the labels, takes a few tries with the printer and some wasted sheets.
https://powerwerx.com/fbl-blue-sea-...97AmmQfShoL3ovwv2m8BM4VSNvNeTJHqQJQGP3pEX3Azg
Last edited:
scav322
Active member
Main Panel
Ok I am proud of this one! The bus bars, ANL fuse holders, disconnect, and link bars are all from BEP. They offer a great catalogue of parts which can all be linked together using their link bars. I went with a "central" DC bus design where all positive 12V is on top and negative on bottom. All main system fuses are located in one place and share one bus bar. All grounds come back here as well with one cable grounding the bus to the chassis.
Wire connection points are on the front side of the panel but are routed and secured behind the panel. The lower portion has "charge source" breakers/disconnects for shore power, Orion charger, and solar. Breakers are from Blue Sea and the solar one has a 65V rating (this was harder to find from Blue Sea). 120V distribution is located here as well.
The goal here was to get all the major components, fuses, and breakers in one place and close together, making for shorter wire runs and easier operation/troubleshooting. This was a fun part of the build and the BEP parts helped out a lot, I would highly recommend them for any power system.
Panel itself is aluminum cut from sendcutsend
Tinned copper linking bus bars.
Electrical legos.
Ok I am proud of this one! The bus bars, ANL fuse holders, disconnect, and link bars are all from BEP. They offer a great catalogue of parts which can all be linked together using their link bars. I went with a "central" DC bus design where all positive 12V is on top and negative on bottom. All main system fuses are located in one place and share one bus bar. All grounds come back here as well with one cable grounding the bus to the chassis.
Wire connection points are on the front side of the panel but are routed and secured behind the panel. The lower portion has "charge source" breakers/disconnects for shore power, Orion charger, and solar. Breakers are from Blue Sea and the solar one has a 65V rating (this was harder to find from Blue Sea). 120V distribution is located here as well.
The goal here was to get all the major components, fuses, and breakers in one place and close together, making for shorter wire runs and easier operation/troubleshooting. This was a fun part of the build and the BEP parts helped out a lot, I would highly recommend them for any power system.
Panel itself is aluminum cut from sendcutsend
Tinned copper linking bus bars.
Electrical legos.
scav322
Active member
Project: Exterior Mods!
Looks like this will do it for this build thread, I think I covered anything I took pictures of during the build, and the van has been done for about 2 years now. We've been on many adventures since, all over California and Utah primarily. Van is still doing well to date and I continue to tinker with it on a regular basis because nothing is ever completely finished, but mostly because I enjoy doing so. My one gripe with it is the flares, there's just not enough room to stretch out. I am starting to plan a new build or at least get together a new list of ideas and components, but I think it will include no flares and a north - south bed. Anyways, I appreciated the comments on the van and hope something on here was of interest or help on someones build.
Here's all the stuff that got bolted to the outside that cost way too much $$$.
Roof Rack, Ladder, Steps - Rugged Design Concepts
Great small company, Dennis and his wife run this business and build each rack themselves. All one piece tig welded, installed with a forklift. I know they are growing pretty fast now but they were quite small when I got my rack.
Each one is made to order depending on fan or AC placement, I got a curved front profile to fit a light bar. He recommended a 54" curved bar to fill out the slot in the rack. I got one from Rigid that has black chrome reflector, looks somewhat more stealth than the standard chrome reflector. I do not think this product is still being offered from Rigid so hope it doesn't break.
Rear lights are from Diode Dynamics, unfortunately where they are positioned, even tilted down all the way, does not light up the rear door opening very well. Side lights are just generic knock offs but have held up fine without any moisture intrusion (that I can tell).
Steps are fine, there are some better options out there, I think Rugged has redesigned these since I got them. The ladder however is very nice and of course works well with their rack and steps. All one piece tig welded parts.
Looks like this will do it for this build thread, I think I covered anything I took pictures of during the build, and the van has been done for about 2 years now. We've been on many adventures since, all over California and Utah primarily. Van is still doing well to date and I continue to tinker with it on a regular basis because nothing is ever completely finished, but mostly because I enjoy doing so. My one gripe with it is the flares, there's just not enough room to stretch out. I am starting to plan a new build or at least get together a new list of ideas and components, but I think it will include no flares and a north - south bed. Anyways, I appreciated the comments on the van and hope something on here was of interest or help on someones build.
Here's all the stuff that got bolted to the outside that cost way too much $$$.
Roof Rack, Ladder, Steps - Rugged Design Concepts
Great small company, Dennis and his wife run this business and build each rack themselves. All one piece tig welded, installed with a forklift. I know they are growing pretty fast now but they were quite small when I got my rack.
Each one is made to order depending on fan or AC placement, I got a curved front profile to fit a light bar. He recommended a 54" curved bar to fill out the slot in the rack. I got one from Rigid that has black chrome reflector, looks somewhat more stealth than the standard chrome reflector. I do not think this product is still being offered from Rigid so hope it doesn't break.
Rear lights are from Diode Dynamics, unfortunately where they are positioned, even tilted down all the way, does not light up the rear door opening very well. Side lights are just generic knock offs but have held up fine without any moisture intrusion (that I can tell).
Steps are fine, there are some better options out there, I think Rugged has redesigned these since I got them. The ladder however is very nice and of course works well with their rack and steps. All one piece tig welded parts.
scav322
Active member
Mods part 2
Suspension - Van Compass 4.3
Best mod for drivability to date. Completely transformed the van, mainly on road. I prefer the ride stiff to minimize body roll and run these on their stiffest setting on road. Is that bad for them?
Tires - Nitro Ridge Grappler 275/70R17.
I have about 16k miles on them and tread wear still looks good but they have gotten a bit louder with age/miles. Compared to a Ko2 these are much better in terms of wear and road noise in my experience. Never have I heard a louder tire than a worn out Ko2 on a pickup truck, they are also like slicks in the rain with no weight in the bed.
Rear Bumper - Aluminess Slimline
High quality but overpriced. Pros include having no weight on the rear doors/ no drill holes in rear doors because of the dual swing arms. Cons include having to open the swing arms first before opening the rear doors. Overall nice setup but there are a lot of good options out there.
Suspension - Van Compass 4.3
Best mod for drivability to date. Completely transformed the van, mainly on road. I prefer the ride stiff to minimize body roll and run these on their stiffest setting on road. Is that bad for them?
Tires - Nitro Ridge Grappler 275/70R17.
I have about 16k miles on them and tread wear still looks good but they have gotten a bit louder with age/miles. Compared to a Ko2 these are much better in terms of wear and road noise in my experience. Never have I heard a louder tire than a worn out Ko2 on a pickup truck, they are also like slicks in the rain with no weight in the bed.
Rear Bumper - Aluminess Slimline
High quality but overpriced. Pros include having no weight on the rear doors/ no drill holes in rear doors because of the dual swing arms. Cons include having to open the swing arms first before opening the rear doors. Overall nice setup but there are a lot of good options out there.
tw1963
Active member
Love this build !
Wow amazing build. Cool to see that you have the east-west sleeping setup with flares and a bike underneath.
I’m trying to figure out how my bikes will fit in a layout like this. Does your rear tire protrude past the inside edge of the bed? If so by how much? And what bike is it?
And looks like the fork mount is at the very edge of the floor in the back, so maximizing space there?
I’m trying to figure out how my bikes will fit in a layout like this. Does your rear tire protrude past the inside edge of the bed? If so by how much? And what bike is it?
And looks like the fork mount is at the very edge of the floor in the back, so maximizing space there?
scav322
Active member
Thank you! This layout allows 2 bikes to be stored pretty easily, I think a third would be possible if the middle bike was put in first with the handlebars towards the front of the van, however it would be very tight. The width of the electrical and water system boxes is the limiting factor. I wanted storage space on top of those and allowed them to be a bit wider. The bike in the pictures is a Yt Decoy, large size frame. The rear tire does come into the seating area north of the bed by about 6”.
On my floor plan I have the bed pushed back pretty far with flarespace space saver flare trims to fit the seat next to the galley. I don’t think the tire would come past the bed with the normal size flare trims.