2002 308cdi EGR valve location

[Tdizzle13]

So my old beast is having some issues:

Loss of power with acceleration (hills are her enemy) and struggles to go over 80 on the highway.

The EDC light comes on as well as the 'water in fuel' light. These both come on after driving for a little bit and seem to be triggered by acceleration.

The power loss only started happening after the tank was dropped to do a fuel system test

My mechanics want to do a test to see if there's any leaks in the vacuum system and fuel lines which I'm all good to do but Ive seen others talking about how the EGR getting clogged can cause some issues.

It seemed like something I could do myself in terms of remove, clean, reinstall but I cant find the darn thing.

Ive got an online manual for a 2003 model - cant seem to find one for 2002 - and the engine diagram is quite different to what's in front of me.

So Im hoping someone can help me out with either a correct manual or can point it out to me in the pics attached haha

 

[Cheyenne]

From your pictures you have a RHD OM611 in which case you do not have an EGR system.

 

[Tdizzle13]

Ohhhhhh well that explains it haha.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

On your model a vacuum leak at the tee, or the AC recirculate damper actuator is common. Failure of the vacuum control solenoid for the turbo is another cause.

Otherwise harness damage, or actual water in the fuel are considerations. If the water in fuel light is coming on, I would start with checking the fuel for water! Empty out the fuel filter to check.

Other sensors to check are the manifold pressure sensor, and manifold temperature sensor.

 

[Tdizzle13]

Brand new fuel filter and the light started coming on after Id been driving it for a while but hadn't even opened the fuel cap once (bought it with a full tank and only took it on short trips to the mechanics lol)

There was a *small* fire in the engine, (happened when trying to jump start it and i think the host car had something funky with voltage) but it only ended up destroying one wire which was connected to speakers. The electrical tape was melted on some surrounding wires but the actual rubber maintains intact, by some miracle.

I do believe there's any issue with the vacuum system as it had issues with falling out of gear due to loss of pressure in the transmission, so I'll pass on your suggestions to the mechanics.

Thank you!

 

[Cheyenne]

Brand new fuel filter and the light started coming on after Id been driving it for a while but hadn't even opened the fuel cap once (bought it with a full tank and only took it on short trips to the mechanics lol)

You most likely do NOT have a Water In Fuel sensor, look for a small sensor in the bottom of your fuel filter. My 2003 built OM611 most certainly does not!

There was a *small* fire in the engine, (happened when trying to jump start it and i think the host car had something funky with voltage) but it only ended up destroying one wire which was connected to speakers. The electrical tape was melted on some surrounding wires but the actual rubber maintains intact, by some miracle.

Can you post a photo of the damage so we can see if anything still looks untoward please.

I do believe there's any issue with the vacuum system as it had issues with falling out of gear due to loss of pressure in the transmission, so I'll pass on your suggestions to the mechanics.

Is your van a 'SprintShift' automated manual gearbox then? I didn't think this relied on vacuum but stand to be corrected. Your loss of pressure is more likely a failing pump on the transmission.

Search the forums repository for files with the word 'shift' in them for help understanding the transmission...

T1N 901 903 Sprinter reference material

diysprinter.co.uk

Keith.

 

[Tdizzle13]

You most likely do NOT have a Water In Fuel sensor, look for a small sensor in the bottom of your fuel filter. My 2003 built OM611 most certainly does not!


Can you post a photo of the damage so we can see if anything still looks untoward please.


Is your van a 'SprintShift' automated manual gearbox then? I didn't think this relied on vacuum but stand to be corrected. Your loss of pressure is more likely a failing pump on the transmission.

Search the forums repository for files with the word 'shift' in them for help understanding the transmission...

T1N 901 903 Sprinter reference material

diysprinter.co.uk

Keith.

First pic is the light that stays on.

Fuel pump has been replaced and no longer has transmission issues, so yes that makes sense haha.

Second and third photos are the only visible damage you to wiring. The red one goes to a 60A fuse (not sure what it powers, but i think aircon unit as is ex ambulance) and the green one (i think) is for the old ambulance lights (the non siren ones)
I got VERY lucky with the fire as it was only the subwoofer wire that was buggered completely.

Newest problem is the darn thing wont start. Battery has sufficient charge. Ignition comes on, can hear the starter clicking but then won't crank. Just absolutely nothing with the full key turn. The coil/glow plug light stays on.

I cant see any damaged wires (apart from those listed above but those were damaged long before now and has been driven since). I had the negative off the battery whilst charging it, but everything has been reattached nice and tight.

Any help appreciated!

 

[Cheyenne]

Your amber warning light signifies you have a blocked fuel filter (NOT water in fuel as often mis-read).

Same lights but in different positions, light 26 is BLOCKED fuel filter, 23 is Water In Fuel...

 

[Tdizzle13]

Your amber warning light signifies you have a blocked fuel filter (NOT water in fuel as often mis-read).

Same lights but in different positions, light 26 is BLOCKED fuel filter, 23 is Water In Fuel...

View attachment 406661

I see! Its a brand new filter but the problem is consistent with a blocked filter (thanks google) and it started after the tank was dropped out for some work. Guess that stirred up some crap and immediately blocked the new filter.

If i replace the filter, will it keep happening bc theres crap in the tank? What would you recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

 

[Midwestdrifter]

That light is triggered by the low side pre-delivery fuel pressure sensor. I don't recall if an air leak into the system can cause that or not. The sensor itself can fail, and I do believe it can cause a power reduction.

We never got that engine over here, but from a few photos I have seen, I believe the sensor is located on the UK passenger side of the engine, just below the intake manifold, near the fwd side?

 

[Tdizzle13]

That light is triggered by the low side pre-delivery fuel pressure sensor. I don't recall if an air leak into the system can cause that or not. The sensor itself can fail, and I do believe it can cause a power reduction.

We never got that engine over here, but from a few photos I have seen, I believe the sensor is located on the UK passenger side of the engine, just below the intake manifold, near the fwd side?

The first time it came on was just after I picked it up from mechanics after they dropped the tank to do some work. I was trying to accelerate uphill and the light came on and immediately started losing power. From what ive read on the google, this is fairly consistent with a blocked fuel filter?

The same visit to mechanics they replaced the high pressure fuel pump with a low pressure one and the fuel filter was either replaced same visit or the one before and it had only been driven home and back between visits.

Ill get a new filter and I'll have a look at the sensor too.

But until I can get it started I cant test much 😅
Currently, ignition comes on but wont crank with full key turn and the Coil light stays on. Any suggestions much appreciated, ty!

Im trying to learn some mechanical stuff but when everything on the internet and YouTube etc conflicts the next, its incredibly overwhelming.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

The ECM detects a clogged filter by measuring the pressure on the low pressure feed, via a pressure sensor. A clogged filter is one of the things that can cause low pressure on the low pressure fuel system, but there are other causes. If you have difficulty starting, I would look for air infiltration first.

 

[Tdizzle13]

Ok I'll look into the sensor, but I dont think thats the cause of the no start atm. It usually has no issues starting even with that light on. Just power issues whilst driving.

Atm the 'wait to start' light stays on and it wont even attempt to start. The photo is the dash while attempting a full key turn. Its giving me absolutely nothing.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Does it crank or no? Do you have air conditioning? I assume not. If so, and your electric condenser fans runs when you attempt to crank (and nothing happens) then you probably have a fuse block one ECM relay failure.

 

[Tdizzle13]

It has aircon but hasnt worked whilst Ive owned it lol. Its an ex-ambulance van so it also has a massive air con unit on top, which also currently doesnt work.

No crank. Starter clicks but then just absolutely nothing.

Im wondering if the small fire it had a while ago fried a bunch of sensors etc :/ it was just one wire that was melted (subwoofer) but, it happened whilst trying to jump start the van. Found out later on the car i was jumping from had some kind of voltage fault that buggered its battery, and im wondering if when jumping my van the voltage went too high and fried some electrical components.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

If their starter is clicking then it's not a sensor issue.

I suggest checking for voltage drops in the starter circuit. Specifically making sure that the starters solenoid is getting a solid 11 volts when you turn the key.

Common areas that can cause cranking issues are the engine to chassis ground strap, and the battery to chassis cable. The battery to chassis cable specifically can corrode internally with no obvious sign and cause a failure to crank. If you're cranking improves after giving it a good pull, that is your issue.