Wheel bolts

[220629]

... Glad I didn't get a flat and need to do this on the road or worse yet in the outback. My Sprinter is 2019 2500 4x4.

Our required annual safety/emissions inspections require removing at least one wheel. Any time that I know a shop has removed/re-installed a wheel I always take the time to loosen and re-torque all of the wheel fasteners. For just the reasons that you mention.

vic

 

[4wheeldog]

Just switched factory-installed winter wheels with a new set of uplifter take off wheels. Both sets steel so I didn't have the lug bolt problem, but I did break the stock lug wrench. The wheels where torqued so tight that I needed a 3' breaker bar to loosen them. Only got 3 lugs loose before the wrench broke. Then cracked two of my own sockets. Sprinter SOS sent a tow truck. They had no problem removing the lugs but said they needed 400 foot pounds to remove. Had them loosen all the lugs and tightened to just 150 fp instead of the spec 177fp. Now I have put my own torque wrench in the van and ordered a breaker bar and impact sockets to carry. Glad I didn't get a flat and need to do this on the road or worse yet in the outback. My Sprinter is 2019 2500 4x4.

After my van had its one (And likely only) service at the MB dealership, I could not break the lugs loose with a 3' wrench and socket.
So I now carry a 42", 1" drive breaker bar, with the appropriate socket. I also carry a torque wrench set to 150fp. I recheck them with some regularity, since it is a bit less than spec.

 

[Deleted member 50714]

Just switched factory-installed winter wheels with a new set of uplifter take off wheels. Both sets steel so I didn't have the lug bolt problem, but I did break the stock lug wrench. The wheels where torqued so tight that I needed a 3' breaker bar to loosen them. Only got 3 lugs loose before the wrench broke. Then cracked two of my own sockets. Sprinter SOS sent a tow truck. They had no problem removing the lugs but said they needed 400 foot pounds to remove. Had them loosen all the lugs and tightened to just 150 fp instead of the spec 177fp. Now I have put my own torque wrench in the van and ordered a breaker bar and impact sockets to carry. Glad I didn't get a flat and need to do this on the road or worse yet in the outback. My Sprinter is 2019 2500 4x4.

I dunno, have the lug bolts been over stressed?

 

[marklg]

I have an impact wrench to remove the bolts and a torque wrench to install them. Combo works great so far. An impact wrench like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07255QCN4

will save your knuckles! As posted before, no idea why I waited 45 years to get one.

Regards,

Mark

 

[Cheyenne]

...I also carry a torque wrench set to 150fp.

It is bad practice to leave a torque wrench set to a high figure, over time the spring goes weak. You should always set it near the lowest figure before storing. (Unless you have a digital wrench that is).

Keith.

 

[brassarl]

Can't help with the steel wheel bolts as I only have alloys, but the MB OEM Alloy wheel bolts are:-

Length under spherical seat - 53mm
Thread length - 24mm
Plain shaft length - 29mm

I just purchased 5 steel rim bolts today, under $50.
Here's a photo of both, alloy wheels.... long bolt, short bolt for steel wheels

Thanks for pointing this out.

Lou

 

[icebreaker]

I don’t know if anyone will find this helpful, but I have a 2020 VS30 and replaced the stock steel wheels with aftermarket aluminum wheels. In doing so I could find zero info as to what lug bolts I would need.

This is what I’ve learned:

1) For a lug bolt to be “safe” it must be long enough for at least 6x threads to engage (and ideally 17mm of threads or more) with the hub but not so long that they protrude from the other side and damage the vehicle (parking brake).

2) 2500 VS30’s hubs take 14x1.5 lug bolts (a common size), but the style (ball vs conical seat) and possibly length of the bolts vary depending on whether you have factory steel, factory alloy, or aftermarket aluminum wheels.

3) The factory steel wheels require a Ball Seat bolt and I measured the exposed shank length (threaded portion of the bolt/part that protrudes the back of the wheel) length to be approximately 32mm. Note that the exposed shank length and actual shank length may be different depending on how thick the mounting surface of the wheel is and also that lug bolts are measured and sold by actual shank length not exposed shank length.

4) Most aftermarket aluminum wheels require a Conical Seat bolt. My tire shop installed my wheels with bolts that had a 24mm shank length. These were significantly shorter than the factory bolts that came with the steel wheels but >6x threads do engage. I am ordering new bolts with 28mm shanks just for peace of mind.

5) I do not know the specs on factory alloy wheels.

Hopefully someone will find this helpful.

 

[jcmadeintheshade@gmail.com]

All the more reason to ditch the steel spare wheel once and for all for a matching alloy spare. Match them all, says I. Simple is better.

I have the Portland Sprinter Guys to thank for coming up with a set of four alloys for my 06 T1N 2500. Now my two spares match the four on the van, and I have two spare alloy rims if I ever need them. The steel spare wheel is free for the taking along with some matching lug nuts.

 

[marklg]

All the more reason to ditch the steel spare wheel once and for all for a matching alloy spare. Match them all, says I. Simple is better.

I have the Portland Sprinter Guys to thank for coming up with a set of four alloys for my 06 T1N 2500. Now my two spares match the four on the van, and I have two spare alloy rims if I ever need them. The steel spare wheel is free for the taking along with some matching lug nuts.

My alloy wheels won't fit on my door mounted spare tire carrier. The holes for the lug bolts are slightly smaller and won't fit over the threaded part that holds the wheel on the carrier. I don't think the steel plate that goes over the threaded part and is held on by a nut will fit either and could scratch the wheel if it did fit.

Regards,

Mark

 

[jcmadeintheshade@gmail.com]

One of my my two spares hangs off the driver side rear door. 06 T1N 2500. The alloy rim was not a problem. Lucky me.

If the mounting studs on the rack aren't lining up with the alloy rim, some adjusting of the spacing may be required, like in markig's case. Either that, or create a way to make them line up by adding a bolt on steel plate that will.

Where there is a will, there is a way.

I do like the looks of rear door spare tire racks that have a basket of sorts on the bottom. It sounds like I was lucky this rack worked for the alloys I have, but if it had not, I would have come up with some way for the studs to match the lug nut holes on the alloys, either by re-drilling or adding a steel plate to achieve the same.

I bought this rack off a fellow forum member on the East Coast. It 'might' have been a Surco.

Thanks to all here.

 

[ECU]

Bolts for Alloy wheels for T1N Sprinter
Lug Bolt - For Alloy Wheel - (14 X 74 X 1.5 mm) 05104018AA

 

[marklg]

One of my my two spares hangs off the driver side rear door. 06 T1N 2500. The alloy rim was not a problem. Lucky me.

If the mounting studs on the rack aren't lining up with the alloy rim, some adjusting of the spacing may be required, like in markig's case. Either that, or create a way to make them line up by adding a bolt on steel plate that will.

Where there is a will, there is a way.

I do like the looks of rear door spare tire racks that have a basket of sorts on the bottom. It sounds like I was lucky this rack worked for the alloys I have, but if it had not, I would have come up with some way for the studs to match the lug nut holes on the alloys, either by re-drilling or adding a steel plate to achieve the same.

I bought this rack off a fellow forum member on the East Coast. It 'might' have been a Surco.

Thanks to all here.

It isn't that the studs on the rack don't line up with the holes in the wheel. The two studs line up with the center and one hole in the wheel just fine. The holes in the alloy wheel are smaller than the threaded studs they used on the rack. I likely could change the studs, but I think they are welded on. The lug bolts fit loosely in the holes in the alloy wheels and the cones on the bolts center the wheels into location. I don't think the pretty cover over the spare will fit the alloy wheels on the rack either as they stick out farther.

Regards,

Mark

 

[Gwilym & Eddy the Merckx]

It may depend on the make, or type, of alloy wheel?

I bought alloys for my Sprinter, German ones called Autec, about a decade ago and when they arrived without a set of bolts I queried why... The supplier assured me they were designed to take the original bolts... A decade of driving since with no issues whatsoever.

 

[smittylube]

I don’t know if anyone will find this helpful, but I have a 2020 VS30 and replaced the stock steel wheels with aftermarket aluminum wheels. In doing so I could find zero info as to what lug bolts I would need.

This is what I’ve learned:

1) For a lug bolt to be “safe” it must be long enough for at least 6x threads to engage (and ideally 17mm of threads or more) with the hub but not so long that they protrude from the other side and damage the vehicle (parking brake).

2) 2500 VS30’s hubs take 14x1.5 lug bolts (a common size), but the style (ball vs conical seat) and possibly length of the bolts vary depending on whether you have factory steel, factory alloy, or aftermarket aluminum wheels.

3) The factory steel wheels require a Ball Seat bolt and I measured the exposed shank length (threaded portion of the bolt/part that protrudes the back of the wheel) length to be approximately 32mm. Note that the exposed shank length and actual shank length may be different depending on how thick the mounting surface of the wheel is and also that lug bolts are measured and sold by actual shank length not exposed shank length.

4) Most aftermarket aluminum wheels require a Conical Seat bolt. My tire shop installed my wheels with bolts that had a 24mm shank length. These were significantly shorter than the factory bolts that came with the steel wheels but >6x threads do engage. I am ordering new bolts with 28mm shanks just for peace of mind.

5) I do not know the specs on factory alloy wheels.

Hopefully someone will find this helpful.

^^^^
This is the only person who mentioned conical seat vs ball seat in 3 pages. All the pics in this thread are ball seat bolts. Typically these fit factory wheels.
Aftermarket wheels typically have the conical bolts or nuts and typically will have this mentioned in the specs along with sizing ( bolt spacing, center bore and offset > ET). I have always used stock lug torque, but I suggest getting this info from the manufacturer of the wheel set.

 

[sailquik]

brassard/Lou,
Thanks for the photo!!!
One picture is worth 1000 (or more) words from
54 posts!
Roger

 

[Dongoose]

I don’t know if anyone will find this helpful, but I have a 2020 VS30 and replaced the stock steel wheels with aftermarket aluminum wheels. In doing so I could find zero info as to what lug bolts I would need.

This is what I’ve learned:

1) For a lug bolt to be “safe” it must be long enough for at least 6x threads to engage (and ideally 17mm of threads or more) with the hub but not so long that they protrude from the other side and damage the vehicle (parking brake).

2) 2500 VS30’s hubs take 14x1.5 lug bolts (a common size), but the style (ball vs conical seat) and possibly length of the bolts vary depending on whether you have factory steel, factory alloy, or aftermarket aluminum wheels.

3) The factory steel wheels require a Ball Seat bolt and I measured the exposed shank length (threaded portion of the bolt/part that protrudes the back of the wheel) length to be approximately 32mm. Note that the exposed shank length and actual shank length may be different depending on how thick the mounting surface of the wheel is and also that lug bolts are measured and sold by actual shank length not exposed shank length.

4) Most aftermarket aluminum wheels require a Conical Seat bolt. My tire shop installed my wheels with bolts that had a 24mm shank length. These were significantly shorter than the factory bolts that came with the steel wheels but >6x threads do engage. I am ordering new bolts with 28mm shanks just for peace of mind.

5) I do not know the specs on factory alloy wheels.

Hopefully someone will find this helpful.

I too am replacing my stock steelies (2017 Sprinter 2500 170) with Method 701 aftermarket alloys, and I'm a bit shocked at how hard it is to find a definitive answer on bolt length. The conical part I got early on, but I'm still not sure what length to order. Method sell a 33mm length, and according to their model fitment selector these should be the ones....but from Sprinter Store and others, I see bolts in 50mm and 40mm lengths as well...in addition to shorter ones sold as Sprinter wheel lug bolts which are presumably for steel wheels. I know you posted this quite a while ago Icebreaker, but I thought the bolts for alloys should be LONGER than the ones for steelies (steel/thinner/shorter bolt vs. alloy/thicker/longer bolt). Also been told that if you're carrying a steelie as a spare that you should keep the lug nuts from one of your steelies because if you mount it with the longer bolts it will hit the brake caliper or pad.

 

[icebreaker]

I too am replacing my stock steelies (2017 Sprinter 2500 170) with Method 701 aftermarket alloys, and I'm a bit shocked at how hard it is to find a definitive answer on bolt length. The conical part I got early on, but I'm still not sure what length to order. Method sell a 33mm length, and according to their model fitment selector these should be the ones....but from Sprinter Store and others, I see bolts in 50mm and 40mm lengths as well...in addition to shorter ones sold as Sprinter wheel lug bolts which are presumably for steel wheels. I know you posted this quite a while ago Icebreaker, but I thought the bolts for alloys should be LONGER than the ones for steelies (steel/thinner/shorter bolt vs. alloy/thicker/longer bolt). Also been told that if you're carrying a steelie as a spare that you should keep the lug nuts from one of your steelies because if you mount it with the longer bolts it will hit the brake caliper or pad.

Well, if Method is selling 33mm bolts for their wheels is go with those! And just double check that enough threads are engaged and that they don’t protrude from the other side when installed.

Anyway, the 24-33mm range sounds right to me for many aluminum wheels... 40-50mm sounds way too long.

If you keep a steel wheel as a spare definitely keep lug bolts! But it’s not about length so much as having some ball-seat bolts on hand!

 

[sailquik]

icebreaker,
Please read the first post in this very long thread (57 individual posts) again.
Matching the contact seat configuration is certainly important, but having the bolts
be too long and getting tangled up in the rear brakes to the point of ripping off the '
backing plates etc. is REALLY why the length of the bolts is critical.
As you suggest there are tapered conical seats, there are ball/bell shaped conical seats
on the 2500's with LUG BOLTS, and flat seats on the 3500's with LUG NUTS and it's very
important that where possible you get the lug configuration SPECIFIED by the manufacturer
of the wheels.....not the guy at the wheel shop or the guy at your local auto parts store.
If it all goes bad, you have some legal rights against the company that manufactured the if they
have specified matching lugs to secure the wheels onto your Sprinter.
Roger

 

[Claude15]

2015 2500
The stock wheel bolts for both the steel and aluminum wheels protrude out the back face 28 – 29 mm.
I’m running bolts for my aftermarket wheels that stick out 30.6 mm.
28 – 31 mm protrusion is ok in my experience.

 

[Nic7320]

This story reminds me of a friend who was helping another friend with his '64 Mustang. The car was very pretty. It just had a new short block installed. It had reconditioned heads. It had new belts and hoses. But it *also* had -- a really bad knock in the engine.

It just didn't make sense, since almost everything in the engine was new. We started tearing it down. Pulled off the heads. The knock persisted. Pulled the pan. Checked con rods and bearings. Nothing wrong there. But the knock kept happening and it had to be something in the block. We're thinking it could be a broken crankshaft but that should have been more obvious.

Reluctantly, we started to pull the block... when I noticed something. I ran my finger around cylinder number 1. It wasn't perfectly round. Upon closer inspection, it had lump in the cylinder wall with a small crack.

We eventually determined someone used the wrong bolt on the water pump and it was too long. And they must have blasted the thing in with an impact wrench very hard -- because it impacted the outer cylinder wall through the water jacket and deformed the cylinder -- and they were apparently unaware they had just destoyed a brand new block.